Birthday weekends are always a good excuse for a cheeky weekender. Although you never really need an excuse to go and see more of the world, do you?!

Following a great ski trip to Georgia last winter we thought we’d investigate it’s smaller southern neighbour, Armenia. Once again we knew next to nothing about this mysterious little pocket of the Caucasus so accompanied by our intrepid buddies Dave and Sharon, it was time to go check it out!

Only 3 hours flying from Dubai, Armenia is a small land locked nation whose size betrays it’s history. At the height of its powers back in 300BC-400AD it controlled territory stretching from the Mediterranean in the west to the Caspian in the east via the Black Sea coast to the north…

It was subsequently conquered by Turks, Persians, lost three quarters of its population in the horrific genocide at the hands of the Ottomans in 1915-23, before being swallowed by the Russian Republic and the subsequent Soviet Union. What remains today is now a mere 30,000sqm of its former glory with a population of 3 million, a vast overseas diaspora, and almost 30 years of independence.

It was also however the first nation to fully embrace Christianity back in 300AD, and this legacy can be witnessed by the numerous ancient monasteries dotted around the country. We managed to visit one such monastery during our whirlwind visit, only 30km out of the modern capital of Yerevan.

Geghard Monastery is a stunning such example, with its 13th century chapel built right up against an incredible 4th century cave church, excavated from above to access a sacred spring. So very special, and especially beautiful surrounded by snow on a crisp winter’s day…

Can you believe that this spookily stunning place of work was actually carved out of the rock?!!

In direct contrast to the hidden spirituality of the cave monasteries stands the proud pagan Garni Temple, erected in the 1st century AD in honour of the pagan sun god Mihr.

Quite how it managed to survive Armenia’s transition into Christianity, several Islamic sackings, and even Soviet ideology is truly remarkable. It is in fact the only example of Greco-Roman colonnaded architecture in all of the former Soviet Union, and it is simply stunning in all its restored glory!

But the beauty of this little nation lies not only in its architectural achievements, and its resilience against greater hostile powers, but of course in its landscapes. A prime example of which is the majestic Mt Ararat. Soaring above the Armenian Highlands at a height of 5,137m above sea level, this dormant volcanic cone currently resides in modern day Turkey, though the view is claimed by the citizens of Yerevan and is proudly displayed on everything from fridge magnets to the label of the prized local brandy. It is also claimed to be the peak into which Noah’s ark finally came to rest – yes that Noah and that ark – which should give you some idea as to how high those biblical floods must have been.

Yerevan itself is a neat little Caucasian capital city. Similarly to Tbilisi in Georgia, it has been built to optimise it’s geographical position, being protected from invaders by a gorge on one side and mountains on all others. Its grand tree lined boulevards and stately buildings are reminiscent of Paris or other European cities, and its parks crammed with statuary, fountains (wisely inoperative in winter) and sculpture gift it an air of cultured grace.

Except for the psychedelic blue kiwi…

…which I find totally bizarre and actually quite offensive with an unknown object stuck between its beak and no trace of dignity with its legs splayed wide for all to see!! Well at least it seems to be having a good time.

Ahem.

There is not much left to belie Yerevan’s Soviet past, until you reach the open air military museum in Victory Park at the height of the city. The park is littered with various artefacts of military armoury and vehicular weaponry kept under the watchful eye of the grand 22m high statue of Mother Armenia…

It’s all very eerie, especially when it’s bathed in its spooky green light in the middle of winter with a light snowfall floating around you…

As with many other former Eastern Bloc countries, Armenia was quick to throw off all vestiges of its Soviet yoke. One of the first of these to go was the monumental statue of one Joseph Stalin which once stood on this very same plinth towering over the city in celebration of victory following WW2. It only lasted 12 years before it was literally pulled down overnight and replaced with Mother Armenia, symbolising the concept of “peace through strength” and certainly serving as a powerful statement of Armenia’s current nationhood.

And what better way to take in Victory Park, Mother Armenia and other sights than to be driven around the city in nothing less than Stalin’s very own limo!

That’s right, it’s a GAZ M-20 Pobeda (which actually translates to “Victory”of course), which has been lovingly restored and available for night time cruises around the city, with its top firmly down… even in the winter!

What a thrill to be driven around downtown Yerevan on a Thursday night sipping Armenian brandy with the snow drifting down… 😆

History aside, Armenia is famous for a few specific things…. the first are roses. And yes I’m talking cut flowers here, but flowers like you have never, ever encountered before, with scents soooo divine it brings a smile to the face of even the most crankiest of taxi drivers as we found out!

Armenians are justifiably proud of their roses, which apparently arrived as root stock from Holland, but with the exceptional soil (volcanic maybe?) they have developed the most magnificent of fragrances. You’ll just have to believe me here, but I’ve never encountered such superbly sweet smelling specimens like these before…

Anything grown in this soil is exceptional, with Armenia also renowned for its produce – stone fruit (apricots especially), vegetables, herbs… check out the size of this coriander…!!!

…grown of course to complement their exceptional tradition of barbecued meats…

Not to forget the wine… it’s believed that the fertile valleys of the South Caucasus, which Armenia straddles, are the source of the world’s first cultivated grapevines and neolithicwine production, over 6000 years ago! And when they’re not making exceptional wine, they’re making exceptional brandy, which almost tastes to us more like a really smooth Scotch whisky than the brandy our parents drink (must be that soil huh). So good is this brandy that it’s often beat out French Cognac in blind tastings and France has actually permitted Armenia to use the label “Cognac”. It’s been said that Stalin himself was so proud of this brandy that he used to send cases of it to Churchill!

And not to forget the Vodka! Which Armenians are seemingly very fond of going by the size of the chiller in this particular supermarket…

…the highlight of which was the surprisingly curious range of handcrafted fruit vodkas – a local speciality – with flavours such as Apricot, Mulberry, Quince, Wild Pear, Black Plum… must be all that good soil eh?!

Over at the city’s Vernissage Market, we discovered other favourites of the local populace… knives! With varieties ranging from boutique bone handled specimens with incredibly sharp handcrafted obsidian blades à la cavemen…

…to the type you’re not exactly going to get home in your hand luggage…

…to Duduks, traditional Armenian woodwind instruments made from apricot wood (!!) which sound remarkably like a clarinet, and which I was thrilled to be gifted as a birthday present…

…Soviet war medals…

And then the dolls! Literally hundreds of dolls dressed in the beautifully colourful traditional Armenian dress. Where do you begin?!

Little ones…

Big ones…

Crikey! Even beautiful Barbie ones beckoning you to take them home with their urns of Armenian wines!! 😆

But more than anything, Armenians appear to have an obsession with pomegranates. They were literally EVERYWHERE! From decorations on public buildings and fountains (including apparently on the pagan temple of Garni!)…

…to art for sale in the market…

…to handwoven textiles…

…to ceramics and curios…

…beautiful jewellery…

…to fridge magnets, of course…

…and to luscious baskets of them at every fresh juice stand on every street corner…

But we don’t mind as we absolutely LOVE them! Well maybe he doesn’t 😆

Almost all pomegranated out, it was time, on the suggestion Sharon and Dave, to head up the giant 118m limestone stairway of the Cascade for a sunset pause.

For every level we ascended we were rewarded with an incredible view over the city…

…and the magnificent cloud shrouded peak of Mt Ararat, looking mighty biblical indeed under the fiery glow of the setting sun…

What a fabulous place to visit. Charming – if not incredibly chilly!! – in its sub-zero degree winter, and almost certainly a place to return to in the summer if only for a taste of that famous stone fruit grown in that infamous soil.

Thanks Armenia, see you in the summer 😍